“Oh, there’s no doubt about it. I have travelled this way several times before. We were pointed out to them back in the customs house while our passports were being examined, our names were told to them and so on and so forth. So they came and sat down here in order to accompany us.”
“But why should they, after all, want to accompany us if they had seen us already? You said, didn’t you, that we were pointed out to them at that other station?”
“We were indeed, and our names were given. But that’s not enough. Now they have studied us in detail: face, dress, suit-cases, in fact our whole appearance. They made a mental note of your studs; you took out your cigar case, if you remember – well now, they’ve made a note of that cigar case too; all these little trifles, you know, and distinguishing marks, particularly
distinguishing marks – as many of them as possible. You could lose yourself in Paris, or change your name (if you are a suspicious character, that is). Those trifles would then help the search. All this is immediately telegraphed to Paris from the very same station. And there it’s kept in the proper place, in case of need. Besides, hotel keepers must supply the most detailed information about foreigners, and must include trifles as well!”
“But why,” I went on asking, still feeling a bit puzzled, “were there so many of them? There were four of them, after all!”
“Oh, they are very numerous here. Probably this time there are few foreigners, but if there were more they would have distributed themselves among different coaches.”
“Come now, they did not even look at us. They were looking out of the windows.”
“Oh, don’t you worry, they saw everything… It was because of us they sat down here.”
Well, well, I thought, there you are, you and your “irrational Frenchmen”, and I threw (shamefacedly, I admit) a somewhat mistrustful glance at the Swiss, as the thought flitted through my mind: you wouldn’t be one of those yourself, my boy, would you now, and just pretending not to be? But I did not think that for more than a split second, I assure you. Absurd, but what can one do? Such thoughts are bound to arise…
The Swiss had told me the truth. As soon as I arrived at my hotel, a full description of my person down to the most minute detail was immediately made and sent to the appropriate authorities. The thoroughness and minuteness with which you are examined in order to describe all particulars concerning you lead one to conclude that your entire life in the hotel, your every step, so to speak, is being scrupulously observed and counted.
However, in my first hotel, I personally was not bothered and my description was drawn up on the quiet, except, of course, for the questions which you are asked in the book in which you make your full confession: who are you, how did you arrive and whence and with what intentions in mind? etc. But in the second hotel to which I went, having failed to find a room in my first – the Hôtel des Coquillières – after my eight-day trip to London, I was treated with far greater frankness.
In general this second hotel – Hôtel des Empereurs – seemed to be run much more on family lines in every respect. The owner and his wife were very good people and very considerate, rather elderly and extraordinarily attentive to the needs of their guests. In the evening of the very day on which I arrived, the landlady caught me in the hall and asked me to come into the room which served as an office. The husband was there too, but the landlady apparently ran the whole administrative side.
“I am sorry,” she began politely, “we need all your particulars.” “But I’ve given them to you… you have my passport.”
“Yes, but votre état?”*
This “votre état” is an extremely confusing thing and I never liked it. What can one put down? Traveller is too abstract. Homme de lettres* earns no respect.
“We’d better put down propriétaire.* What do you think?” asked the landlady. “That would be the best of all.”
“Oh yes, that would be best of all,” confirmed her spouse. “All right. Well now, your reason for visiting Paris?”
“As a traveller, in transit.”
“Mm… yes, pour voir Paris.* Now, monsieur, your height?” “How do you mean – height?”
“How tall are you, in fact?” “Average height – as you can see.”
“That’s so, monsieur… But we should like to know a bit more precisely… I should think, I should think…” she went on, looking questioningly at her husband.
“I should think so high,” decided the husband, stating my height in metres as a rough estimate.
“But what do you want it for?” I asked.
“Oh, it is es-sential,” replied the landlady with a polite drawl on the word “essential”, but at the same time entering my height in the book. “Now, monsieur, your hair? Fair… e-er… very fair, really… straight…”
She made a note of the hair as well.
“Would you mind, monsieur,” she went on as she put down her pen, left her seat and came up to me with all the politeness she could muster, “over here, a step or two nearer the window. I must have a look at the colour of your eyes. Hm… light colour…”
And again she glanced questioningly at her husband. They were obviously very fond of each other.
“A bit greyish,” remarked the husband with a particularly businesslike, even worried expression. “Voilà,” he said and gave his wife a wink, pointing at something over one of his eyebrows, but I understood perfectly well what it was he was pointing at. I have a small scar on my forehead, and he wanted his wife to take note of this distinguishing mark too.
“Permit me to ask you now,” I said to the landlady when the whole examination was over, “are you really required to present such a detailed account?”
“Oh, monsieur, it is es-sential!…”
“Monsieur!” repeated the husband after her, with a somehow particularly impressive air.
“But they didn’t ask me in the Hôtel des Coquillières.”
“Impossible,” retorted the landlady promptly. “They could get into serious trouble for that. They probably examined you without saying a word about it, but they certainly, certainly examined you. But we are simpler and more frank with our guests. We treat them as one of the family. You will be satisfied with us. You’ll see…”
“Oh, monsieur!…” confirmed the husband solemnly and a look of tenderness even came into his face.
And this was a very honest and a very pleasant couple, anyway as far as I got to know them afterwards. But the word “es-sential” was pronounced by no means apologetically or in a tone of voice which pleaded extenuating circumstances, but rather in the sense of absolute necessity which almost coincided with their personal convictions.
And so I am in Paris.
5
Baal
AND SO I AM IN PARIS… Don’t think, however, that I shall tell you a lot about Paris itself. I should think you have already read so much about it in Russian that you are tired of reading about it by now. Besides you have been there yourselves and have probably seen it all better than I have. I never could abide, when I was abroad, looking at things in the proper way as approved by the guidebooks, as every good traveller should.
I am now ashamed to own up to things I have sometimes missed in consequence. In Paris, too, I have missed seeing certain things. I shall not say what they were, but I will say one thing: I have found a definition for Paris, have selected an epithet for it and shall stand by this epithet.
It is this: it is the most moral and the most virtuous town in the whole world. What order! What sweet reasonableness! What definite and firmly established relationships! How buttoned up and secure everything is! How perfectly pleased and happy they all are! And how hard they all have tried! – so hard that they have really convinced themselves that they are pleased and perfectly happy, and, and… have stopped there. There can be no further advance. You will never believe that they have stopped there; you will say that I exaggerate, that this is all a libel invented by a bilious patriot, that things could not in fact have stopped dead.
But, my friends, I have warned you as far back as the first chapter of these notes, you know, that I may tell dreadful lies. So don’t stand in the way. You surely know too, that if I tell lies I shall tell them in the conviction that I am not telling them. Personally, I think this should amply suffice you, and you had better give me full freedom.
Oh indeed, Paris is a remarkable town. And how much comfort and convenience is put at the disposal of those who have a right to comfort and convenience! And again, what order, what stillness of order, so to speak! I keep harking back to order. Indeed, a little longer and Paris with its 1,500,000 inhabitants will become like some small German university town, fossilized in stillness and order, something like Heidelberg, for example. It seems to be tending that way. And why shouldn’t there be a Heidelberg on a colossal scale?
And what regimentation! Don’t misunderstand me: I don’t mean, so much, external regimentation, which is insignificant